“I’m So Happy You Are Here: Japanese Women Photographers from the 1950s to Now,” a new book published by Aperture, features wide-ranging portfolios by 25 photographers. As Pauline Vermare, a co-editor of the book, writes in her introductory essay, the primary focus of the women showcased in the book “has been, and remains, to find the means to be independent and represent their own experiences and views of the world.” Among the works included are those by the 77-year-old photographer Miyako Ishiuchi, who co-founded a photography magazine, main, in 1996. The book contains photos from “Yokosuka Story,” a 1970s series focusing on her hometown, the location of a major U.S. Navy base, and a still-life of a lipstick, part of her “Mother’s” (2000-2005) series, for which she photographed her deceased mother’s possessions. One of the youngest photographers in the book, Momo Okabe, 43, trains her lens on her own body and those of her friends, capturing both everyday experiences and life-changing events such as gender-affirming surgery and pregnancy. From photojournalism to works of collage, the book, as its introduction states, “lays the groundwork for understanding the enormity of what has been overlooked.” “I’m So Happy You Are Here” is out on Sept. 17, $75, aperture.org.
Eat Here
An Enticing Mediterranean Restaurant at Paris’s Gare de Lyon
Marius, the sunny brasserie that opened in July at Paris’s Gare de Lyon, offers a pan-Mediterranean menu and a window into how much French eating habits have changed since the train station reopened after a remodeling and expansion by the architect Marius Toudoire in 1900. Then, the station’s main restaurant, the famously opulent Le Train Bleu, which opened in 1901, was named after the night trains that ran between Paris and Nice. Leisure travel was still the preserve of the wealthy, and the menu vaunted the gastronomic glory of France with dishes like roast leg of lamb and crêpes suzette. Now, France’s high-speed TGV trains have introduced the French not only to the cooking of Provence and Nice but to that of all the countries that surround the Mediterranean. Gastronomic inclusiveness is the goal of Marius chef Yoni Saada, who says he wrote his menu to be “bursting with sunshine and spices.”
Saada’s grandfather was the Tunisian founder of the oldest kosher butcher shop in Paris’s Marais district, and Saada grew up eating both Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jewish cooking. After graduating from Paris’s Ecole Ferrandi culinary school and working at fine-dining destinations like the city’s Hôtel Meurice, he founded Zaza, a restaurant specializing in Israeli street food, in the Second Arrondissement. At Marius, dishes include Tunis’s favorite seaside snack: brick à l’œuf de la Goulette, a crispy pastry filled with an organic egg, canned tuna, potatoes and parsley, served with a side of harissa. If Le Train Bleu, still in the station’s mezzanine, continues to be a bastion of grand Gallic grub, Marius has quickly won a following among younger international travelers with its bright flavors and reasonable prices. instagram.com/marius.restaurantparis.
In 1981, two years after Francis Ford Coppola’s “Apocalypse Now” catapulted moviegoers into the jungle, the director visited Belize and found himself in thrall to a similarly lush landscape. He bought an abandoned lodge in a nature preserve, and over the next decade it became a favorite getaway spot for his young family. By 1993, Blancaneaux Lodge, as it was called, had opened as a laid-back resort. A second property, Turtle Inn, in a coastal fishing village, joined the Family Coppola Hideaways group in 2001. “I started my script for ‘Priscilla’ there,” says the director and screenwriter Sofia Coppola, describing a relaxed pace that has persisted through the decades. “I just love knowing I have a place that feels like home, that’s so different from city life.” A new floral facial mist, created in collaboration with the San Francisco-based skin care line Monastery, is meant to conjure the Belizean retreat. After Athena Hewett, the aesthetician behind the brand, mailed a few of her small-batch products to Coppola, the two women met at Monastery’s Noe Valley spa for a facial. There was a kinship between the beauty brand, with its carefully sourced botanicals and hand-poured formulas, and the Coppolas’ footprint in Belize, where sustainability is central to the group’s operation — Blancaneaux is powered by an on-site hydroelectric plant. The facial spray is made with Central American ingredients including hibiscus oil (rich in vitamin C), wild rose, orchid oil (naturally antifungal) and locally harvested rosewood leaf. At the Belize spas, where Hewett is incorporating new facial massage techniques into the offerings, the spray will serve as a moment of refreshment during treatments — and a travel-ready souvenir. The Floral Facial Essence launches in October, $120, monasterymade.com.
See This
A Mexico City Painter Homes In on the Everyday
In his apartment-studio in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood, the artist Leonel Salguero creates large-format paintings — some canvases stretch nearly six feet tall — depicting everyday objects or domestic scenes. Using thin layers of oil paint diluted with turpentine, Salguero (who is the partner of T’s art director, Carla Valdivia Nakatani) carefully renders a glove draped over a faucet or the rigid head of a Windex bottle. At his second solo exhibition at Agustina Ferreyra gallery in Mexico City, “Jack-go-to-bed-at-noon,” the artist’s paintings will be accompanied by an installation for which he played a hand saw with a violin bow, and a series of lamplike sculptures made of sugar glass that will slowly melt over the course of the show. Across mediums, Salguero wants viewers and listeners to spend time with his works until new angles emerge. He’s interested, he says, in “that irreversible change in perception that happens after you start seeing something new in a given object.” “Jack-go-to-bed-at-noon” will be on view Aug. 17 through Oct. 19 at Agustina Feyreyra, Mexico City, agustinaferreyra.com.
In the four years it was open, Clara Lee and Eddo Kim’s Korean grocery Queens in San Francisco imported cult-favorite snacks and packaged foods, and served homemade dishes. Last July, the couple closed the market, though they’ve continued to produce their house brand of seasonings and other pantry items, which are available online and at an expanding number of stockists across the country. Lee and Kim combine traditional Korean recipes with produce sourced from California farms: Regional growers provide the organic Asian pears and Fuji apples that appear in the galbi marinade and kimchi, and the pair wait to restock their gochugaru dried chili flakes until the peak-harvest peppers arrive from Longer Table Farm in Santa Rosa. Korean pancake mix and anchovy stock powder will soon join the product line. Kim and Lee themselves are also branching out: On Wednesday, Aug. 21, they’re popping up on California’s Central Coast at Bell’s, a French bistro run by Per Se alums in the town of Los Alamos, to co-host a dinner at which they’re planning to serve Korean Californian dishes that include Santa Barbara mussels in dwenjang broth and local oysters with a gochujang sauce. queens-universe.com.
Wear This
A New Collection of Denim and Other Staples in Time for Fall
In 2020, the Los Angeles fashion designer Jamie Haller moved away from clothing design and began creating shoes as what she calls a “palate cleanser” after spending 22 years working for brands like Ever and NSF. “I needed to take a break from designing clothes to re-remember what my style was,” she says. Now she’s launching a namesake 15-piece collection — most of the pieces will be available Aug. 14, though some items will be released in September and October — that prioritizes comfort and versatility: “I want to feel so at ease in my clothes that they carry me through all things,” she says. The Everything Pant in Japanese brushed cotton twill can be worn cinched high on the waist or slouchy and low, and goes as well with the brand’s washed-silk shirting as it does with the Daily Sweatshirt, available in saturated navy or gray cotton French terry with slightly cropped sleeves. For six styles of denim ranging from a relaxed boyfriend fit to a mid-rise straight cut, Haller obsessively adjusted pocket placement and inseams to be as flattering as possible. Unsurprisingly, each pair of pants was designed with a shoe in mind. In the case of the Crease, an A-shaped flare jean, a vintage-inspired pump — also part of Haller’s new offerings — was created to further elongate the legs. From $198, shop-jamiehaller.com.
From T’s Instagram
An Italian Nobleman’s Villa Is Restored to Its Former Glory
