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When she’s not operative with large names like Lupita Nyong’o, Jennifer Hudson, and Hilary Swank, luminary stylist Micaela Erlanger also divulges her conform imagination in a Ask a Stylist column. From a best places to source selected to a tip to anticipating your many graceful jeans, come behind any week for a professional’s perspective.

Ready to put yourself out of a woe of wearing a bra that fits a bit too parsimonious and simply not as gentle as it should? Today I’m pity my go-to bra that lends all-day comfort. The bra we swear by and keep in my styling pack is a T-shirt bra from Maidenform. It’s a best thing out there. we wear it, and we advise it to all my A-list luminary clients. Along with a T-shirt bra, a code offers other extraordinary styles, like a Comfort Devotion, which is, as a name suggests, also really comfortable. Whether you’re looking for a new simple bra or stout strapless option, Maidenform is your go to. 

Scroll down to emporium a T-shirt bra and some-more of my favorite comfortable bras. 

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Taylor Swift.  Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Taylor Swift.  Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images

Welcome to a new column, Fashion History Lesson, in that we dive low into a start and expansion of a conform industry’s many successful and ubiquitous businesses, icons, products and more. 

Red lipstick has had a surprisingly scattered history. It might be one of a many absolute black of womanlike beauty and sexuality in a Western world, though a energy it wields has caused red mouth tone to be regulated and cursed on countless occasions for “deceiving men” and “undermining category divides.” And while lipstick reduction have sundry extravagantly via time, one thing stays consistent: women are peaceful to put roughly anything on their lips for a allure of a ideal cerise pout, even if means bearing to poisonous materials and risking detain or amicable exile.

Ancient Civilizations

Photo: Flickr/Seabamirum

Photo: Flickr/Seabamirum

Many historians cruise Ancient Sumerians to be a inventors of lipstick from a find of cosmetic cases dating behind to 3,500 B.C. Others like to credit a loyal birth of mouth portrayal to Ancient Egypt, when both group and women rouged their lips regulating a reduction of red ochre, carmine, polish or fat. [2]

Women hexed tiny energy in Ancient Greece, and were also disheartened from wearing lipstick in public, with a difference of prostitutes, who indeed hexed some-more authorised energy that afforded them a ability to flourish cerise mouth paint (although it was mostly finished with reduction such as red dye, sheep persperate and crocodile excrement). Unfortunately, this also led to a initial famous law associated to lipstick, that commanded that prostitutes could be punished for improperly posing as ladies if they seemed without their designated mouth paint. [3]

Women had it (relatively) improved in Ancient Rome. Although it typically contained a potentially lethal volume of poisonous ingredients, lipstick was used by both genders via a Empire, and served as a approach to heed amicable category and rank.

Medieval Period

Throughout a Medieval duration (400s-1400s A.D.), mouth tone in Europe came in and out of open preference due to several attempts by eremite groups to reject makeup for “challenging God and his workmanship.” [4] Lipstick was also used to heed amicable classes during this period, such as a use of Italian multitude ladies of a 1200s wearing splendid pinkish mouth tone while reduce classes wore worldly red tones to imply their defective amicable standing. [2]

The Renaissance

Photo: Flickr/Herman Pijpers

Photo: Flickr/Herman Pijpers

Although English pastors in a 1500s attempted to malign mouth portrayal as a “devil’s work,” that didn’t stop Queen Elizabeth we from regulating a reduction of cochineal, resin Arabic, egg white and fig divert that finished flush lips one of a quintessential tools of Elizabethan fashion. [4] In a 1600s, a preaching continued to quarrel opposite a viewed “sin” of mouth coloring, while English adults (including many critical men) continued regulating opposite shades of red to heed between amicable classes. [2]

The 1700s

In 1770, a British supervision finally upheld a law that rigourously cursed lipstick on a basement that “women found guilty of seducing group into wedlock by cosmetic means could be attempted for witchcraft.” Seriously. Like England, some American states also “protected” group from a “trickery” of lipstick by permitting a matrimony to be annulled if a mother had used mouth tone during a couple’s courtship. Fortunately, women in a pre-revolution epoch of France didn’t have reason to stop regulating splendid red lips to assistance contrariety their beauty ideal of a white porcelain complexion. [2]

The 1800s

Lip portrayal fell out of practice in a Western universe during many of a 1800s due to a change of Queen Victoria. However, according to some historians, a 1860s pitch a start of a reconstruction of cosmetic use worldwide. The Parisian cosmetic code Guerlain had a initial commercially successful lipstick take off in a 1880s, that was finished from grapefruit churned with butter and wax. [2] Since requesting lipstick was still seen as something that should usually be finished in sum secrecy, theatre singer Sarah Bernhardt caused a huge liaison by requesting her lipstick openly in open in a late 1800s. [3]

The Early 1900s

By a spin of a 20th century, makeup had finally spin socially acceptable. According to Madeleine Marsh, author of “Compacts and Cosmetics,” a initial and many famous phenomenon of red lipstick was when suffragettes took a streets of New York in 1912 wearing splendid red lipstick. After centuries of masculine management restricting women’s use of lipstick for dignified and eremite reasons, red mouth tone had spin a loyal pitch of womanlike rebellion.

In 1915, American contriver Maurice Levy introduced a initial mouth tone in a shifting steel tube, that gave birth to lipstick as we know it today. Despite this complicated advancement, a common American recipe of dejected insects, beeswax and olive oil finished lipsticks spin acerbic several hours after application. Additionally, many lipstick formulas still contained potentially poisonous ingredients, as Congress didn’t pass an effective act to strengthen a reserve of cosmetics until 1938. [2]

1920s-1930s

Photo: Flickr/Kate Gabrielle

Photo: Flickr/Kate Gabrielle

American’s prejudices opposite confidant red lipstick were discontinued by a flourishing recognition of suit pictures, that featured wordless film starlets wearing exaggeratedly dim lips. Consumers attempted a replicate their favorite star’s signature pouts, such as Clara Bow’s “cupid bow” and Mae Murray’s “bee-stung” lips.

In 1933, Vogue announced lipstick “the many critical cosmetic for women,” that was finished clear by a continued expansion in a market, even while a Great Depression was in full swing. This is what desirous a “Lipstick Effect,” a tenure used by economists to explain because consumers continue to buy small, “frivolous” products like lipstick to lift spirits during times of financial hardship.

1940s

Vintage Elizabeth Arden ad.

Vintage Elizabeth Arden ad.

During World War II, cosmetic advertisers introduced politically charged ad campaigns for colors such as “Victory Red,” enlivening women to welcome beauty maintain as partial of their county duty. One announcement for Tangee lipstick during a fight resolutely stated, “No lipstick…. will win a war. But it symbolizes one of a reasons because we are fighting—the changed right of women to be delicate and poetic underneath any circumstances.” [2]

1950s

Vintage Revlon ad.

Vintage Revlon ad.

Revlon introduced a iconic “Fire and Ice” promotion debate in 1952, that has spin famous as one of a many effective ads in cosmetic history. The two-page announcement enclosed a list of 15 questions to “test” if a reader’s celebrity matched a confidant red lipstick shown on indication Dorian Leigh. (A few examples: Have we ever danced with your boots off? Do we consider that any male really understands you?) To supplement some-more fuel to a fire, actresses like Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe were always shown in their signature flush shades, creation red lipstick some-more fascinating and ubiquitous than ever before.

1960s-1970s

The 1960s saw a outrageous diminution in a recognition of red mouth tone due to a neutral lips adored by mod conform and a some-more healthy beauty fast popularized by a hippie enlightenment that continued into a 1970s. Meanwhile, some feminist groups denounced lipstick for being only dictated for a pleasure of men. (This mindset would change in a late 1990s, when third-wave feminism or “lipstick feminism” speedy women to suffer their sexuality and femininity in antithesis to congenital oppression.) [1]

With a coming of disco-era glamour, cherry red silken lips came behind into high fashion. The glam and punk stone subcultures also saw a arise in a use of lipstick by men, nonetheless this was zero new: Egyptian group were portrayal their lips thousands of years before David Bowie ever picked adult a tube.

1980s-1990s

The 1980s brought excessively splendid red lips, maybe remembered best on a mouth of Madonna in her early years. However, a finish of a decade and a 1990s saw a clever trend towards nude, pale lipstick shades, as good as a engorgement of brownish-red tones.

As a millennium reached an end, many women adored lipstick that matched their mood and coming over adhering to trends.

Today

Jennifer Lawrence. Photo: Samir Hussein/Getty Images

Jennifer Lawrence. Photo: Samir Hussein/Getty Images

A span of cherry red lips looks only as stylish currently as it did hundreds of years ago. Fortunately, it’s also a lot reduction expected to enclose poisonous reduction (although it’s still a good thought to be wakeful of what’s inside your favorite tube!). In many tools of a complicated world, women have a leisure to flourish confidant red lips but a fear of persecution, and people have spin freer to use lipstick to demonstrate themselves regardless of their gender or amicable status. Perhaps a biggest problem that we face with red lipstick currently is selecting a ideal shade.

Want a latest conform attention news first? Sign adult for a daily newsletter.

Sources not linked:

[1] Ford, Lynne E. “Encyclopedia of Women in American Politics.” New York: Infobase Publishing, 2007.
[2] Kozlowski, Karen and Meg Cohen Ragas. “Read My Lips: A Cultural History of Lipstick.” San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1998.
[3] Pallingston, Jessica. “Lipstick.” New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1998.
[4] Steele, Valerie (ed.). “Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion.” New York: Charles Scribners Sons, 2004.

Homepage photo: E Plus

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I took my initial genuine assault when we was 16 years old.

Before that fatal Saturday night we had come off worse in a few spats in stadium and park though this was something else. This was my initial tighten confront with violence. This was a good hiding. This was one of those undeniable, unmanning defeats where we was prosaic on my behind and being pummelled in a face, and it did not finish until someone dragged off a lady kneeling on my chest. The assault was short, nauseous and infamous – only like my competition – and it seemed to raze out of nowhere. There was a lady concerned – no, she was a girl, amatory all a courtesy – and some hearsay, and bleeding pride, and alcohol. And what some-more did immature group ever need to start throwing punches?

It wasn’t many of a fight. They frequency are. When it all kicks off, what customarily happens is that someone wins emphatically and immediately. But it is tough to flog someone up. Adrenaline exhausts we many faster than small earthy effort ever could. Your frail hands bond with tough bone and pointy teeth. Your peaked blood vigour means your punches are thrown extravagantly and infrequently totally skip their target. And even if we are winning – even if we are a one kneeling on someone’s chest, even if we are dishing assault out rather than sucking it adult – there’s always a fear of what competence occur to we if things go too far. But if it is tough to win a fight, afterwards try losing. You never know how offensive assault is until we have been on a receiving end. we got adult off a belligerent with what were extraneous injuries. A black eye and some scuffed skin. My Ben Sherman shirt had mislaid a few buttons. we had kept my front teeth.

But my honour was annihilated.

Beyond any earthy injury, losing that initial quarrel was humiliating. It was crushing. It was worse than being left by any woman. It was worse than being sacked from any job. It took divided my clarity of self-worth and left it out for a bin men.

When we got home, my silent wept during a state of me. But my father – a male with a PhD in violence, a scarred aged soldier, a heavily flashy torpedo – only stared during me. And before my father incited his courtesy behind to Match Of The Day, he spoken a law that each male and child contingency learn about violence.

“There’s always someone worse than we are,” my father told me.

You would consider that group would grow out of this stuff. You competence pretty wish that there would come a time in a lives when we put all assault behind us. Scrapping over some mousey lady during some gloomy celebration – it sounds as appealing as acne. You competence consider that a almighty tender – how is a male to live in this world? – would develop to a indicate where assault is a final thing we have to worry about. But violence, we will learn, is always out there.

You child yourself that assault is behind we now – disintegrating in your rear-view counterpart forever, only like drugs and promiscuity and poverty, one of those childish phases we eventually strew like upheld skin. But assault is always with us. The fight-or-flight response doesn’t go divided only since your hair has a smattering of grey.

As flourishing boys and immature men, a hazard of assault is as all pervading as a weather. The hazard is there during a propagandize gates and over a park, and after it is there in parties and clubs and pubs. But we grow up.

You stop chasing each flitting lady and start amatory one woman. You are unexpected lethal critical about your career. You start staying home many nights. And afterwards – a biggest change of all – we spin a father. And once we spin a father, we have someone in your life that we are prepared to die for. You learn that fighting to strengthen your child comes some-more naturally than breathing.

I was recently pushing with my daughter, who is 14, when one of a tellurian abounding who are shopping adult a community scarcely ran us off a highway in his glossy new black Mercedes. we exploded. And if a motorist who scarcely harm my daughter and we had pronounced one word to me afterwards we would have knocked his conduct into a behind seat. And when it was over, my daughter was looking during me as if she was saying me for a unequivocally initial time. It was not a good impulse for possibly of us.

But it reminded me that assault is still out there. It can seem during any time. You do not have to go looking for it. Sometimes assault finds you. And a male needs to do some-more than merely fear it.

It is a cliché mostly steady that a genuine quarrel is zero like a movies. A genuine quarrel is also zero like a gym. It is zero like a dojo. Any form of fighting in a tranquil sourroundings is zero remotely like a genuine quarrel since there is a arrogance of fairness. Any kind of ring has a formula of honour. Violence is not like that.

In sparring, we do not tool your opponent’s eyes or feet him in a testicles. He does not strike we when we are down. In a genuine quarrel all of these things happen. You don’t get mixed assailants in a good karate class. But we do down during a Rat Trumpet during shutting time. Violence isn’t fair. Someone wins roughly immediately and a rest of it is zero though damage.

There is good value in doing any kind of quarrel competition – they keep we fit and mislay your apprehension of removing strike – though they can never replicate genuine violence. They can’t even ready we for it. If we spar, afterwards we are roughly positively ring with people we know and like. But if someone tries to impulse your skull in a bar, afterwards he is fundamentally some pointless foreigner who hates your guts.

You can do martial humanities for years though ever apropos a martial artist. we did kung fu though we was never a martial artist. But my clergyman was a martial artist in his blood and bones. we once watched him walking down a travel towards some small gang. He was conjunction aroused nor aggressive. He was totally self-contained. And we watched as that small squad split to let him pass, without, we suspect, even meaningful that they were doing it. But he was a martial artist. And no matter how tough we train, many of us will never lift ourselves with a ease self-confidence of my kung fu teacher.

There are dual forms of group who find themselves drawn to quarrel sports. There are a furious boys who wish to learn to quarrel since it harnesses some middle demons and there are those who have been bullied, mostly all a approach to a hospital. My kung fu clergyman was a latter – he had taken adult martial humanities in a initial place since he had been brutally picked on as a teenager. He was a gentle-natured, still male who could flog me from one side of a room to a other. And once, after removing into a quarrel with a flitting climb who had angry my girlfriend, we sought his recommendation about what we should have finished differently.

“You should have walked away,” he told me.

But what if we are not male adequate to travel away?

Hard group – loyal tough group – always contend that assault is never value a cost we have to pay. Because a consequences of assault are unknowable. This is a best reason to equivocate violence. If it kicks off, we could remove your front teeth or your pursuit or your life. You could finish adult in sanatorium or prison. This is all serious, life-warping stuff. The chances are we will have no thought about your opponent’s strengths. And, whatever happens, there will be zero remotely reasonable about it. Every quarrel risks we murdering someone or putting them in a coma – or carrying a same finished to you. Even if we win – even if we emerge though a blemish – zero good is going to come out of it. And if assault happens in a work sourroundings – as it did with me in my initial pursuit – afterwards your career risks entrance to a stop before it has begun.

In my initial pursuit as a journalist, we had a quarrel in a office, some 6 years after we took that beating. This time we was during a other finish of a violence. In some ways, it was worse. My editor would have been within his rights to flog me out. My competition could have called a police. And for what? Hurt honour over some lady when there were a million improved women watchful only around a corner. That is a mindlessness of violence. You play Russian roulette with your health, your career, your freedom. You risk all for so little.

Violence lasts for roughly no time during all though a disorderly issue – to body, to mind, to career – can relate by a years. Violence is always ugly, heartless and senseless. And nonetheless we can’t repudiate that it binds a mindfulness for us. All boys wish – long, crave, crave – to be harder than they unequivocally are, and all group know in their heart that they will never be utterly tough adequate for what a universe has waiting.

And we are never so developed that a judgment of being tough is visitor to us. We know a energy of violence. How a hazard protects all we love. How assault could take it all away. Yes, assault sickens a heart whatever finish of a assault we are on. But we can’t grow out of assault since it is executive to any man’s life. Anyone who thinks that carrying a debt and a moisturising regime puts him over assault is deluding himself. Learning to understanding with assault is pivotal to being a man.

The experts on assault we have famous – a dual group who taught me to fight, a father who taught me to be a male – always advise an intrinsic pacifism. Make like Jesus and spin a other cheek. Ignore a insult. Walk away. Then keep walking. Wonderful recommendation though sadly it does not cover each scenario.

At some indicate we will not be means to travel away. And a clich� of a impulse that assault becomes unavoidable will jolt you. You competence strike into someone in a bar who will simply not accept your apology. You competence arise in a night with a criminal station during a feet of a bed. You competence hear some pointless goon insult someone we love. What are we going to do about it? You are not going to travel away. You are going to take a beginning while always remembering that we should never strike anyone who we are not prepared to keep hitting.

But when we contingency – when all peaceful, placatory, peacemaker options are tired – afterwards strike them initial and strike them hard.

And when we strike them first, for God’s consequence aim during something – a jaw, ribs or overpass of a nose. All are good – unequivocally few group can have their nose damaged and not be given pause.

And when we strike them hard, strike them with all we have, with a punch that comes from your feet and not your arm. And when it is over – when those offensive seconds have upheld – we don’t travel away. You run.

You run for your life.

Like this? Now read:

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Tabi foot fetishists come together, there’s a place in Paris for all your hardcore Martin Margiela needs. Well there is this weekend anyway. Paris’s final remaining porn cinema is being incited into a selected Margiela mart for dual days. Byronesque, an editorial and online selected selling app, (think a reduction hype-beasty Grailed) is bringing a really voluptuous collection of selected Martin Margiela pieces together into a shoppable retrospective. You know we wish it. Well we can get it during Le Beverley, on charity de la Ville Neuve.

It’s a showcase of all that creates Martin such an iconic figure of fashion, from a spirited amusement in pieces of oppulance détournement — like a vest finished of leather gloves and a collar finished from wigs — to trompe l’oeil pieces and those iconic Tabi soles from 96, that were trustworthy to models’ feet with sellotape on a catwalk. As fashion’s many puzzling of figures, Margiela’s poser means he still binds lean over a imagination. All we have to do is to dive, headfirst, into a stately universe conjured by a garments he created. 

“The poser that Martin Margiela combined around his code usually doesn’t exist today,” Byronesque’s owner Gill Linton comments. “Everything is so in-your-face, zero is left to be figured out. We all speak about it yet zero changes in fashion, so people demeanour behind for inspiration. Vetements have also combined fad around Margiela silhouettes in a good way. They have filled a opening that’s blank yet when that happens it also creates direct for a original.”

That direct is undeniable. So they’ve collected a biggest hits collection of a best of Margiela to applaud that original. Not that it’s been easy to collect such extraordinary pieces from as distant behind as 1989, when a tag started. This your possibility to find and buy some impossibly singular pieces, a kind we don’t see popping adult on eBay.

“We’ve spent a final few years perplexing to reinvent a selected conform attention with something some-more modern, creative, and provocative, and people are starting to respond to that. We were approached by extraordinary private collectors from around a world, including Quidam de Revel Paris who chose us to sell their Margiela collection for a initial time ever. The collection grew from there. Our initial ‘fashion retrospective we can buy’ was in NYC; this is a initial time we’ve finished one dedicated to a singular designer. We’re really happy it’s Margiela.”

“We wish people will see how we have been deferential of Margiela’s strange approach. Having pronounced that, we’re not putting a pieces on a pedestal. Fashion week doesn’t need another sharp presentation. We’re profitable loyalty to Margiela’s rebellious nauseous beauty.”

Vintage Margiela fans will have to cum discerning though, as a emporium is usually adult for dual days on Mar 4 and 5, 2017. So tag on your Tabis, trip on your uneven ditch coat, and get down to Le Beverley.

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While selling and wearing what we adore and feel gentle in is of pinnacle importance, there’s positively something to be pronounced for sartorial validation around compliments. In other words, when someone asks “Where’d we get that?” about something you’re wearing, we know it was a good find.

Certain pieces only have that special, expensive-looking heat about them, that prompts friends and even strangers to find out how they, too, can acquire a piece. Thus, we set out to source uninformed equipment for open that fit that description, and as an combined bonus, any one rings in underneath $50. Among a offerings are a span of beautiful satin shoes, an festooned bomber jacket, and what’s certain to be your new favorite skirt. All we have to do is select your favorites, supplement them to your selling cart, and wait for a compliments to start rolling in.

Go on to emporium 18 affordable open finds that are certain to make everybody ask, “Where’d we get that?”

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The collection, that facilities denim, outerwear, activewear and occasionwear, is accessible in 50 comparison stores opposite a UK. It is not accessible online. 

The supermarket pronounced a operation pays “great courtesy to detail”. For example, activewear pieces underline integrated stomach control panels, zip pockets, contemplative sum for night runs and a slot for earphones.

Morrisons launched a Nutmeg kidswear operation in 2013. Last year, a supermarket edged onto a list of a tip 20 wardrobe retailers in a UK by volume, according to Kantar Worldpanel (at series 20).

Christine Bryce, difficulty executive of wardrobe during Morrisons, pronounced a womenswear collection was grown following direct from customers. “We listened to the business and they pronounced they wanted affordable, peculiarity wardrobe with genuine courtesy to fact and, of course, it had to be fashionable.”

Prices start during £3 and sizes operation from 8 to 22.

 

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EC – You have an enviable customer list: Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges as vital dialect stores and signature boutiques such as Browns, Matches, Collette, 10 Corso Como, and innovative websites like Net a Porter… You are really attuned to offered and we also have your possess e-commerce site. Where does that business inventiveness come from?

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(Foto: flickr.com)
(Foto: flickr.com)

Il debutto di Snap Inc (la società di Snapchat) in borsa ha superato le aspettative. Il prezzo di 17 dollari per azione si è impennato fino a 25,99 dollari, per poi chiudere a 24,48 dollari (+44%).

Snap Inc azioni
(fonte/immagine: Bloomberg/SNAP:US)

La capitalizzazione di mercato, di circa 33 miliardi di dollari, fa dello sbarco in Borsa di Snap Inc un episodio difficilmente replicabile nel corso dei prossimi 36-48 mesi, periodo durante il quale potrebbero suonare la campanella di Wall Street, Brian Chesky (Ceo di Airbnb) e Travis Kalanick (Ceo di Uber), anche se c’è da scommettere più sul primo che sul secondo.

Non ha uguali invece la strategia messa in atto dal Ceo Evan Spiegel che, criminal il Cto, Robert Cornelius Bobby Murphy, detiene il 90% dell’azienda. we titoli senza diritto di voto acquistati sono stati 200 milioni, per un controvalore di 3,4 miliardi di dollari, titoli che di fatto danno diritto solo a dividendi matriarch escludono il potere decisionale di chi li possiede.

Spiegel e Murphy, nell’arco di una decina di ore, hanno incrementato i rispettivi patrimoni personali di 3 miliardi di dollari, facendo peraltro contenti investitori e analisti, anche se questi ultimi non cambiano thought sulle perplessità già espresse in passato.

I numeri di Snap Inc, però, non convincono: perdite per 515 milioni di dollari, contrazione della crescita del numero di utenti e, ciò che più solleva dubbi, strategie ancora fumose. La società di analisi Nomura è convinta che sul medio e lungo periodo Snap deluderà gli investitori, altri tecnici del settore sono persino convinti che le azioni siano già sopravvalutate, prevedendo quindi in futuro assestamenti del prezzo (anche bruschi) verso il basso.

Leggi anche

Se il collocamento in borsa della società di Snapchat sarà da affiancare a quello più baldanzoso di Facebook o a quello meno frizzante di Twitter, potrà dirlo solo il tempo.

 

 

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