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Ce sont ces interrogations que Maria Grazia Chiuri a soulevées pour cette collection haute couture automne-hiver 2018-2019, à l’issue de l’exposition Christian Dior, couturier du rêve, qui a mis en lumière, au musée des Arts décoratifs, les créations de la haute couture en rendant hommage à ce lieu sacré et intemporel : l’atelier.

Les ateliers sont des temples, gardiens de la pensée. C’est au cœur de cette mémoire de la couture – cette série d’images, de formes, de couleurs et d’attitudes – que se déploie la vision créative de Maria Grazia Chiuri. La couture est une instance de l’avant-garde, une forme d’art qui se développe grâce à l’imagination. Une réflexion qui cultive l’audace de répéter des gestes codifiés tout en cherchant à les enfreindre. Car la couture est aujourd’hui, avant tout, un geste conceptuel. A l’image d’un ready-made de Marcel Duchamp.

Ce sont parfois des tissus qui guident le projet, qui sont travaillés dans d’anciennes manufactures qui ne peuvent produire que quelques mètres à la fois et auxquelles on a demandé d’introduire un élément inhabituel ou un nouveau savoir-faire ; chaque matière pouvant subir des modifications qui accentuent ses effets de manière inattendue. D’autres fois, l’idée première vient de la volonté de reconstruire le rituel et la façon de s’habiller au gré des occasions qui rythment une journée. La haute couture, c’est la possibilité de porter une qualité unique, d’adapter l’œuvre parfaite à son propre corps. Maria Grazia Chiuri revient aux fondamentaux et imagine des tailleurs dans lesquels les manches de la veste Bar deviennent des ailes de chauve-souris. La véritable transgression étant de se référer aux règles d’usage tout en détournant leur syntaxe.

La palette des couleurs poudrées (brique, vert, rose ou orange), en dialogue avec le Nude, colore les vêtements, mais aussi les accessoires – bijoux fantaisie raffinés, voilettes et chapeaux – telle une continuité complémentaire du corps que la couture met à l’honneur. Les robes du soir, éblouissantes par leurs différents plissés, ou par leurs jeux de superpositions, contrastent avec des bustiers simples qui offrent une dissonance surprenante. La forme sculpturale d’une robe de soie rouge cousue d’une seule pièce ouvre la voie à une série de créations majestueuses et intimes, à la fois retenues et explosives : la couture devient alors un lieu psychologique de résistance féminine.

Alison Bancroft assimile, dans un sens lacanien, la couture au mode d’expression des avant-gardes : réappropriation de pratiques séculaires rejetées par le désir de nouveauté et réinterprétation des traditions par des valeurs contemporaines. C’est par cette rencontre entre un système de règles établies et la créativité la plus libre que, pour Maria Grazia Chiuri, la couture devient rébellion : une sorte de « guérilla » idéologique qui explose aux frontières d’une tradition ancrée, sans jamais les outrepasser. 

* « Inspiring Desire: Lacan, Couture, and the Avant-garde », in Fashion Theory.

** « Les modèles originaux sont exclusivement créés par le chef de la maison ou ses modélistes permanents ; (…) ils sont exécutés uniquement dans ses propres ateliers… » Définition donnée par Didier Grumbach dans le Dictionnaire de la mode au XXe siècle, Editions du Regard, Paris, 1994.

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It’s a blazing 30-degree day, humid and muggy. You’re sweating from your walk or commute home. The last thing you want to do is switch on your stove or oven and COOK DINNER. We got you. Below, 10 delicious—and easy!—summer recipes you don’t need to stand over a hot stove for.

Smashed chickpea toast with harissa yogurt
Tired of avocado toast? These lemony, mashed chickpeas over spicy-tangy harissa yogurt will likely become your new favourite toast topping.

Recipe and photo via Bon Appetit

Spiralized zucchini noodles with a mint-parsley-pepita pesto
No spiralizer? No problem. You can buy spiralized zucchini at most grocery stores, which means the only “cooking” you have to do is blitzing the pesto ingredients in a blender. Feel free to add some of your favourite crunchy vegetables, like bell peppers or carrots, on top.

Recipe and photo via Goop

Peanut butter overnight oats
Overnight oats are my go-to breakfast every single day of the week. I change the mix-ins often enough to never get bored—from mixed berries to apples and cinnamon, to unsweetened cocoa and honey—and also add toppings like hemp hearts, pumpkin seeds or flaxseed for texture and fibre. All you really need is a few minutes to combine them with oats and milk the night before, and you’ve got yourself a grab-and-go breakfast when you’re rushing out the door!

Recipe and photo via Minimalist Baker

Avocado egg salad
Another go-to for the days when I’m too lazy to do much more than assemble ingredients is this egg salad (bonus: it’s super healthy. No mayo in sight!). I usually keep a few hardboiled eggs in the fridge for post-workout snacks, and when there’s avocado on hand, you don’t need much else for a quick and filling meal.

Recipe and photo via Pinch of Yum

Tuna, chickpea and beet salad
Again, the bulk of this recipe is assembly: whisking the dressing, and tossing together the greens, chickpeas, beets and tuna.

Recipe and photo via Martha Stewart

Watermelon-tomato gazpacho
What’s better on a hot day than a chilled bowl of soup? This recipe calls for a seasonal twist on the classic gazpacho by incorporating watermelon into the mix.

Recipe and photo via The New York Times

Cold lentil salad with cucumbers and olives
If you’d rather not cook lentils on the stove, just go for a pre-cooked canned version. (I always keep canned chickpeas, black beans and lentils in the pantry for quick fixes like these.) So all that remains to be done is chopping up the cucumbers, mixing the vinaigrette, and tossing the rest of the ingredients together, and you’ve got yourself a meal high on protein and veggies.

Recipe and photo via The Kitchn

Salmon poke bowl
They may have been the food trend of 2017, but these Hawaiian bowls are still as popular today. Though the traditional recipe calls for tuna, you can swap it out for whatever fish you prefer. This one calls for salmon with avocado, carrot, cabbage and edamame. Only caveat: rice serves as the base, so you might have to bend the no-stove rule just this once.

Recipe and photo via Chatelaine

Chinese chicken salad with red chile peanut dressing
Pick up a rotisserie chicken on your way home and your meal is already halfway done. All that’s left to do is chop and mix the veggies, and blitz together a quick spicy peanut dressing with ingredients you likely already have on hand.

Recipe and photo via Food Network

Raw date hazelnut brownies
The biggest obstacle to homemade brownies in the summer? Putting on the oven. This recipe sidesteps that with its raw take on the classic. Be sure to pick up toasted hazelnuts so you can skip step number one.

Recipe and photo via Deliciously Ella

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From easygoing ripped skinnies with a white blouse at the 2017 Invictus Games to her unexpected Givenchy wedding gown that was the epitome of understated elegance, the newly-anointed Duchess of Sussex sure knows her way around a pleasant outfit. Her fashion choices have captivated audiences across the globe, and all we have to say is, breaking royal protocol never looked so right. Besides, you don’t become a fashion “It” girl by playing by the rules. And Meghan Markle really is “It”.

In celebration of her real-life fairytale, we present this gallery of every single notable outfit Meghan Markle has ever worn since her engagement to Prince Harry.


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July 5th, 2018 – Meghan Markle pulls a Michelle Obama, exercising her right to bare arms in a canary yellow Brandon Maxwell dress, while attending a reception marking the culmination of the Commonwealth Secretariats Youth Leadership Workshop, at Marlborough House in London.

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June 19th, 2018 – Meghan Markle attended the first day of Royal Ascot, arriving in a fairytale carriage with Prince Harry. Markle wore an elegant white shirt dress by Givenchy and paired it with a black and white hat from Philip Treacy.

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June 14th, 2018 – Meghan Markle stepped out with Queen Elizabeth II for the first time without Prince Harry by her side. Her recent outfit choices have kept a neutral colour theme and she continued the trend with a pale beige Givenchy dress. She paired the dress with a black belt, black stilettos and a pair of pearl earrings, gifted from the Queen herself.

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June 9th, 2018 – Meghan Markle makes her Buckingham Palace Balcony debut in a peach toned Philip Treacy hat and a controversial off-the-shoulder skirt suit by Carolina Herrera. (We think she looks stunning, sleeves or no sleeves)

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May 22nd, 2018 -Meghan Markle shares a laugh with the Duchess of Cornwall as they attend a garden party with 6,000 guests in celebration of the Prince of Wales’ birthday.

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May 19th, 2018 – Meghan Markle debuts the official “second dress” of her wedding day as she leaves Windsor to attend the evening reception at Frogmore House: a mock-neck gown by Stella McCartney.

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May 19th, 2018 – Prince Harry and Meghan Markle are married at St. George’s Chapel. The bride wears a Givenchy gown designed by Clare Waight Keller.

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April 21st, 2018 – Prince Harry and Meghan Markle attend the Invictus Games Reception at Australia House in London. Markle wears a green dress from Self Portrait and a black Alexander McQueen blazer – which she’d worn previously to a dinner in February.

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April 19th, 2018 – Meghan Markle attends a Women’s Empowerment reception in London, England wearing a Black Halo cocktail dress and diamond earrings by Birks.

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February 28th, 2016 – Kate Middleton wears a cobalt blue Seraphine dress to attend the first annual Royal Foundation Forum held at Aviva on February 28, 2018 in London, England.

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Meghan Markle arrives to Edinburgh Castle wearing a Burberry coat, Veronica Beard pants, Strathberry bag and Birks rings, on February 13, 2018.

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Meghan Markle arrives to a walkabout at Cardiff Castle in Cardiff, Wales wearing a coat by Stella McCartney, purse by DeMellier London, pants by Hiut Denim and boots by Tabitha Simmons on January 18, 2018.

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Meghan Markle visits Reprezent 107.3, a Brixton radio station, wearing a coat by Smythe, top by Marks Spencer, pants by Burberry and a ring and earrings by Birks.

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Meghan Markle wears a Ralph Russo gown in this candid shot from her engagement photoshoot with Prince Harry released by Kensington Palace on December 21st.

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Meghan Markle wears a coat by Mackage on a visit Nottingham for her first official public engagement with Prince Harry on December 1, 2017 in Nottingham, England.

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Prince Harry and Meghan in a coat by LINE on the day of their engagement in London.

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Dons a Misha Nonoo shirt with Prince Harry at the Invictus Games Toronto 2017 at Nathan Philips Square.

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Meghan attends the Invictus Games Toronto 2017 Opening Ceremony wearing an Aritzia dress and Package leather biker jacket at the Air Canada Arena.

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Meghan arrives at ELLE’s Annual Women In Television Dinner.

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Meghan attends the Season 5 premiere of “Suits.”

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Meghan at AOL Studios.

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Meghan at Wimbledon.

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Meghan attends the Sephora Unveils Toronto Eaton Centre Remodel.

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Meghan attends the Roland Mouret private dinner at Corkin Gallery.

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Meghan attends the Instagram Dinner at the MARS Discovery District.

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Meghan attends Luminato Big Bang Bash at the Hearn Generating Station.

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Meghan at the World Vision event held at Lumas Gallery.

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Meghan attends the 12th annual CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards at Spring Studios.

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If there’s one thing we know about Canadian duo Laurence Li and Chico Wang, it’s that they’re not afraid of colour. The Parsons-trained team created their self-titled brand Laurence Chico in 2015 and since then, they’ve turned out some pretty incredible looks. From Big Bird-esque yellow fur to loud polka-dotted prints, every outfit is a statement piece.

When the duo announced their plans for a brand expansion, it made sense to think they’d undertake a more sartorial endeavour, but instead, the designers went with the creation of a whimsical fashion café. However, the word café might be a bit misleading, or rather, a bit of an understatement. The eye-catching space, which reimagines the duo’s vibrant designs, has the potential to send you into sensory overload (in the best way possible).

Photography via Leila Kwok

From glittering mosaic floors to a bathroom bursting with yellow rubber duckies, the textures, colours and unapologetic joy of past collections engulf the 2,082-square-foot store. It would be easy to believe you’re having tea on Mars instead of downtown Vancouver.

Photography via Leila Kwok

Split into two sections, the café, which opened its doors last week, has a to-go area for takeout, along with an afternoon tea salon which takes reservations between 12 and 6pm daily. Pastries will change seasonally and local chefs will help create menus that combine the fashion world with the culinary. Postcards, books, scarves and phone cases will also be available for purchase.

Photography via Leila Kwok

At only a few years old, the Laurence Chico brand is pretty much a baby and you can see that innocence in their collections, but Li and Wang are hardly neophytes. Over the years, they’ve worked at Alexander McQueen, Barneys and Givenchy.

“The reason why we want to do a café, is because we find our clothing to be such a niche market and it’s very specific to that clientele, but we want everyone to experience Laurence Chico’s culture and story,” Li said to Fashionista.com. “So you don’t have to buy our couture technique pieces, but you can buy a T-shirt or even a coffee for $3.50 with our packaging and our story.”

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It’s that time again. It’s the middle of summer, humidity’s high, everything’s sticky, you know the drill. And yet, you (and we!) persist. We try to apply a light layer of foundation, draw on a nice, thin wing and line our lips. Each time, we think we’ll be successful, that we’ve used enough primer, and we’ll load up on setting spray and translucent powder.

But it doesn’t work. It just won’t. Below, we’ve rounded up 10 memes that perfectly capture what it feels like to try to wear makeup in the summer. We know you’ll relate.

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Whatever you did for July 4, whether it be getting third degree burns at the beach or mourning the legacy of colonialism, we doubt you spent your holiday like Therese Patricia Okoumou. Okoumou scaled the Statue of Liberty waving a T-Shirt reading “RISE AND RESIST” — the name of the protest group she’s a part of — after several protesters had already been arrested for holding up a banner reading “Abolish ICE” banner. Truly, an imaginative and productive way to exercise the hard freedoms of speech that Americans so enjoy (usually in the comments section rather than IRL).

It took hours for the police to extract Okoumou, during which time the island had to be evacuated of tourists. Okoumou, who was born in the Congo, said she wouldn’t come down until all the children detained by ICE were released, and seemed intent on honoring this until she realized she hadn’t much choice in the matter, and was escorted down by police. She’s since been arrested and is due to appear in court.

“We unequivocally support Patricia,” said Rise and Resist, after initially denying she had anything to do with them. A more interesting statement came from a mysterious “woman who lives in her building”, who spoke to the New York Daily News. “When I vacuum, she bangs on the wall. I bang back, and she put a dent in my door,” said the unnamed woman. Happily though, “The two later reconciled after Okoumou took a liking to the woman’s dog.” Therese Patricia Okoumou — friend of freedom, and dogs. We salute you for your patriotic actions.

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When Christian Lacroix stepped away from the fashion wheel more than a decade ago, he left a hole that hasn’t been filled, until now.

Sure, there have been stand out shows, pyrotechnics and moments that promised to change things (even if, in the end, they didn’t), but they never quite captured Lacroix’s beauty-for-beauty’s-sake spirit. Lacroix did couture, because it’s the medium he most understood. He wasn’t doing it to sell a perfume (his one and only attempt at that was an unmitigated, expensive disaster) or push a sneaker, but because, you sense, without it, he wouldn’t be very happy.

His couture wasn’t reductive, or particularly fashionable. Nor was it particularly “relatable” in the obvious…

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So the clothes are not just for men?

Andreas Schmidl: We don’t say it’s for girls, but obviously the designs can be easily adapted for a girl. One garment, for example, is called the ‘girlfriend’s jacket’, so it’s cut too narrow and too small, as if the boy stole her jacket after a one night stand.  That could be a reality today, that’s how boys dress. So the girl can steal it back, in a way.

You only recently started presenting the collection catwalk shows. What made you start doing this?

Andreas Schmidl: In the beginning, we didn’t have runway shows and we didn’t want to do a regular lookbook because they all look ugly, to be honest. Who wants to see a jacket in front of a white screen? Since then, we have seen the runway show as a way to synchronise the looks in a new order.

We always try and place the looks into chapters, so you start thinking ’okay, this is the first chapter, these five boys are together.’ Then, the next and so on. It’s really fun too! There’s emotion, and the boys backstage, sometimes they flash each other their penises so they can have a harder, bigger penis on the runway – they totally go for it! It’s not planned, it’s just about the spirit.

What are your plans to grow the label in the future?

Andreas Schmidl: Of course we want to grow bigger, we’re both very ambitious. We started small to see how it works and we want to make it stronger, make it better, and work harder. The more publicity we get though, the more people expect from you and the harder it is to organise. People think there’s a lot of money but there’s not. Everything is self-financed.

I also think that’s the natural thing of fashion. In fashion today and out tomorrow, and it’s hard to battle. We’d rather be out tomorrow, than be boring. If we start creating clothes in a literal sense, like jeans and t-shirts for a mass market then there’s no point of us anymore. For us, the difficulty is how to keep on doing what we’re doing but reach a higher scale, and not print a slogan on a t-shirt.

@lazoschmidl

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