A: This is a fascinating materialisation of nature. The tree branch print on a left was taken by Mike Clower and submitted by John Wheeler. The print on a right was taken by Jim Walla of Northern Tree Specialties.
We’re all informed with a corrupt generated by maple trees, from that maple syrup is derived. Birch have a identical corrupt upsurge in spring, that can ooze from cracks and crevices in branches, or from a aspect of a sawed-off trunk, whose roots are still alive. On subfreezing nights, a issuing corrupt forms icicles, with a neat tenure “sapcicle.”
Jim Walla on his Northern Tree Specialties Facebook page notes, “Birch corrupt is used in some places to make syrup. It has reduction sugarine calm than sugarine maple, so takes some-more corrupt to make syrup. I’ve tasted birch corrupt collected as birch water, that is infrequently marketed as a health drink. It has a opposite season than sugarine maple sap.”
Q: What can we use to mist my apple trees for apple maggot? When is a best time to do this? — Victor Schmaltz.
A: The apple caterpillar is a many common apple insect in a Upper Midwest, causing slight brownish-red streaks or lines circuitous by a flesh. The maggots are a larval theatre of a tiny black fly that pierces a skin of building apple fruit to deposition eggs in late Jun or early Jul that induce into small wormlike larvae that hovel internally in apple fruits, feeding by a summer before exiting.
Begin a mist module about Jun 20, and repeat any 7 to 10 days, or as destined on product label, until Aug when flies stop laying eggs. The comparatively new bomb spinosad is increasingly endorsed since it’s effective, nonetheless causes small mistreat to profitable insects. Sevin can also be used, yet can means fruit dump if practical too early, and it’s some-more dangerous to pollinators.
Always entirely soppy leaves and building fruit with a product. Sanitation helps greatly. Promptly mislay all fruit that drops from a tree to forestall larvae from entering a dirt by depressed fruit and vital by winter to reinfest a apple tree subsequent year.
Q: Is now a time to request a pre-emergent herbicide in my lawn? — Andrew Renfrew, West Fargo.
A: Pre-emergent herbicides practical to lawns in open are many mostly targeting crabgrass, that is a skinny annual weed that contingency grow from seeds any spring, rather than carrying a long-lived base complement that survives winter, as quackgrass, high fescue, and some weedy, wide-bladed grasses do. Crabgrass sprouts any open from seed that’s benefaction in a soil, triggered to origin when dirt heat reaches about 50 or 55 degrees.
Crabgrass-preventing pre-emergent products contingency be practical before these seeds germinate, since they don’t discharge a plants once established. It can’t be practical too early, though, since a products remove efficacy over time. How to tell when to apply?
Monitor dirt temperature, and request a product following tag directions, right before dirt reaches a 50-degree threshold. Soil thermometers are accessible from garden supply catalogs, or follow informal dirt heat stating sites such as https://ndawn.ndsu.nodak.edu/deep-soil-temperatures.html that gives daily dirt temperatures during a 2-inch abyss for many stating cities.
For pre-emergent crabgrass preventers to be effective, it’s required to request half an in. of H2O to disintegrate a granules and pierce a herbicide into a tip covering of soil. Once dissolved, a product forms a separator in a soil. Without dampness to activate a granules, a product can be ineffective, and crabgrass can origin freely.
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If we have a gardening or weed caring question, email Don Kinzler, NDSU Extension-Cass County, during [email protected] or call 701-241-5707. Questions with extended interest might be published, so greatfully embody your name, city and state for suitable advice.